Entry Gear

(Sold)Washburn/N4 Padoauk(Made in Japan)

owner: Shin

2020.2.11: I happened to see this guitar for sale by a neighbor who bought it new more than 20 years ago as a one-owner.
When I bought it, the hole for the toggle switch was covered with washers and bolts, and a 5-way selector, 1Vol, 1Tone wiring, and a center PU had been added.
The rear PU had been replaced with a Gibson 57 Classic.
Only the words "signature model" on the head has been cut off.
The tension bar is not Buzz Feiton tuning and there is no "Made in U.S.A." on the head, so I judge that it is made in Japan.
2020.2.15: Electrical specifications have been renewed.
The rear PU has been replaced with an L-500XL, the Vol has been changed to a switch pot with front and rear coil taps, the added Tone switch can mix the front PU no matter where the selector is, and the original toggle switch hole is a kill switch that turns the sound off only while the switch is held down.
One bridge saddle was replaced and the stock insert blocks were all cracked, so they were replaced with titanium ones.
2021.8.30: The frets were getting dull so fast that I had to polish them every time I took it out of the case, which was very inconvenient, and the nut was too high and difficult to play, so I had it replaced with a Jescar 57110.
The mysterious unit that was attached to the guitar from the time of purchase, which stops the tremolo? The mysterious unit was a pioneer adjuster from Schaller, and the correct way to install it was not clear even to the manufacturer.
It was unwieldy, so I had it replaced with a GOTOH tremolo hanger and three springs.
2021.9.17: I rewired the center PU to a Duncan SSL-52RWPR and the selector to a super switch so that it can switch between 2H mode and HSH mode.
The coil-tapped Vol was replaced with a regular pot.
The fretboard was very thick and the fretboard was very thin, so it seems to be caused by the original hard case that I use for storage.
2021.10.9: When I had the frets replaced, I thought I had the nut height lowered, but it was still higher than I expected, so I had it readjusted at another workshop.
The bridge recess was so shallow that the protruding end of the saddle fixing screw seemed to be interfering with the body when using the arm, so I replaced it with a stainless steel screw that is slightly shorter.
The lock nut screws were also changed to stainless steel.
The sustain block originally came with a 37mm sustain block, but when the back panel was closed, the spring was interfering with the sustain block, so we replaced it with a 32mm sustain block.
I replaced the spring hanger with a CTSC-2 brass spring hanger from Creativity Parts.
I think we have now completed a series of repair and improvement work.
2023.2: I replaced the center PU with an SSL-4RWRP and reworked the wiring at halftone and sold it.